Tea and cake are a must on any British walk. A poor café can spoil a route, while a good one keeps walkers and cyclists energized. Along the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, I followed the Seafood Trail to see if the sweets could match the local seafood.
Our trip began in Nefyn on the north coast, known for its brewery and the Tŷ Coch Inn pub. Storm warnings led us to stay at the Nanhoron Arms hotel, where we enjoyed Anglesey sea bass for dinner and watched the rain from our dry room the next morning.
The first stretch of the walk was immediately impressive. The rain cleared as we crossed Nefyn golf course and followed cliffs and coves. Atlantic grey seals played in the shallows, and a kestrel hovered above. Blackberries along the route provided a natural snack.
Lunch brought us to Cwt Tatws in Towyn. Despite its name meaning “Potato Shed,” the café served far more, with sandwiches, pies, salads, and cakes. The cosy setting included vintage clothing and Welsh products. A slice of coffee and walnut sponge gave us the energy to continue.
We walked along Traeth Penllech, a sandy beach lined with sentinel rocks, and reached Moel-y-Berth campsite. Run by Mike and Joanna Smith, the site has a shop and café for breakfast. Another passing storm gave way to sunshine, and we set out refreshed.
By mid-afternoon, tea and cake were essential. At Porthor’s Whistling Sands beach, Caffi Porthor offered homemade treats, including Bara brith, a traditional Welsh fruit cake made with tea and spices. Energized, I continued seven miles to the tip of the peninsula, taking in dramatic cliffs and the tidal race near Bardsey Island.
Aberdaron, the next village, offered a charming fish and chip shop called Sblash and a welcoming pub, The Ship, where Welsh is the primary language.
In Rhiw, I met Brett and Nia at Top Cat Caffi, who harvest crab and lobster. We enjoyed a lobster salad lunch, though worsening weather prevented helping with the catch. That evening at Rhydolion farm, we walked to Llanengan for fresh mussels at the Sun Inn.
The final day took us across Hell’s Mouth, a surfers’ beach and former shipwreck site, then around Mynydd Cilan headland to Abersoch. Numerous cafés offered shelter from the storm. The seafood was fresh, but the memories of tea and cakes along the route were the highlight.
Walking the Llŷn Peninsula blends natural beauty, local flavors, and cosy cafés. Dramatic cliffs, welcoming villages, and seafood treats make this route a memorable experience for walkers and cyclists alike.
